Archive for February, 2014

Do Not Scrub Acne Skin

Thursday, February 6th, 2014

Do Not Scrub, Overcleanse Your Skin for Acne

 Many of you may have tried or consider trying Clarisonic or any other facial brushes for cleansing your face, neck or other parts of your body. Recent research suggests that excessive cleanising and harsh brushing may not necessarily be good for your skin. “Most people with normal skin should wash their face once a day and avoid any type of cleanser” says Dr. Reza F Ghohestani, M.D., Ph.D., Director of Texas Institute of Dermatology. “Sometimes water is much better than the chemicals or devices that people buy”, he added.

Many devices offer deep skin cleaning but use harsh techniques that may over dry and damage the skin.  Our skin has an amazing epithelial renewal in place. “People may not be aware but your skin constantly peels, you do not need a facial cleanser or Clarisonic to clean your face”, said Dr. Ghohestani who was a NIH principal investigator on dermatology research projects for years.

Unfortunately, people think using harsh cleaners or seeing their skin peel as a sign of effectiveness, when for a dermatology expert it is a sign of skin over drying or skin damage. “Vigorous scrubbing by a brush at home is not a good solution for most skin conditions”, Dr. Ghohestani adds.

Cleansers usually contain surfactant in order to let these products break through the skin epidermal barrier specifically the stratum corneum, the outermost layer and the skin’s protective barrier. These surfactants may remain in the epidermal part of skin and cause some irritation. While excess oil may contribute to Acne and oily skin, the good oils that are produced by the skin results in dryness and ultimately skin damage. Once this epidermal barrier is compromised, the skin is prone to allergic reactions and infection.

If your skin constantly burn, and is over dry after a facial or cleansing, it may be a sign that you’re overdoing it!

According to Dr. Ghohestani, a renowned dermatologist, most people should use a gentle cleanser in the morning and a mild exfoliating cleanser once a week.

Facial cleansing has been a growth opportunity for the skin-care industry in recent years, with sales of cleansing liquids, creams, bars and wipes topping $2 billion last year  according to Euromonitor International.

Everyone is asking whether Clarisonics or other cleanser devises help with cleansing the skin?  My answer is simply no, not really, said Dr. Ghohestani.  If you need to use a device, Dr. Ghohestani recommends to use a mechanical cleanser with a stopgap measure so when too much pressure is used, the motor keeps running but the bristles stop moving.

Face washing at night is most important, said Dr. Ghohestani, a top San Antonio dermatologist. It removes dirt, grime and pollutants that have gathered on the skin during the day, as well as makeup. Some doctors say people without a serious skin-care issue, such as acne, can skip the soap and just rinse in the morning. If your skin was in touch with a clean pillow, it doesn’t necessarily need to be washed with a harsh cleaner.  Dry skin from over cleansing is a problem for people as they age.

For men, Alcohol-based skin products like aftershaves may also irritate the skin. Dr. Ghohestani suggests men wash their face with a cleanser in the evening to remove dirt and oil. The morning cleanse—which often overlaps with the morning shave—is optional, especially if the skin is feeling dry, she said. To make shaving easier, men can apply a warm, moist towel to the face beforehand to soften the skin and beard.

Many Americans, especially teens, prefer cleansers that foam or create suds. “They like the sensation,” says Dr Ghohestani. People also tend to believe foam cleans better, which it doesn’t.

The urge to scrub is often formed as a teenager, when the skin is producing more oil and breakouts are common. “Teens really crave that deep-down-to-the-pores type clean”. The average age of the first breakout is 13. From 13 to 17, girls spend an average of 34 minutes a day on skin care, 11 minutes more than the national average for all women.

Acne sufferers tend to aggressively cleanse their face with either harsh products or scrubbing which is not helpful. 

Exfoliators, which contain particles that scrape dead cells from the surface of the skin, are getting gentler, too. Procter & Gamble Co.’s Olay brand recently released the Pro-X Microdermabrasion Plus Advance Cleansing System, which it says offers a gentler experience using a device with a motorized rotating brush, a foam head and a one-minute timer.

The need for exfoliation increases with age and in certain skin diseases, one may see visible changes as the skin piles up. 

Skin exfoliants mostly contain sharp pieces of apricot pits or other nuts and can damage the skin, thereby causing skin irritation and inflammation. Dr. Ghohestani recommends to avoid exfoliants unless the skin is carefully examined by a dermatologist.